Sunday, 29 June 2014

Getting to grips with the DSLR cameras!

We used the Canon EOS 650D which allows video recording as well as high definition photos.


First of all I would set the ISO to a low number such as 200-200. ISO is light sensitivity and the higher the number the more brighter the image however the higher the number means the more noise in the image. Noise is the grain you can see in the image so the higher the number of ISO you can picture how annoying the grains will be and ruin the quality of the whole thing. In order to get the image to be brighter it is best to adjust that with the aperture which is the F number, the lower the number such as 2.8 the wider the lens opens allowing more light to enter the lens. But in some cases due to the type of lens you are using the aperture may still not brighten up the image, so you will have to adjust the ISO.  Aperture also affects the focus on the image. The higher the F number the deeper the depth of field meaning theres a wider focus and the subject and background will be clearly seen / the lower the F number the shallower the depth of field meaning the subject will be in focus and the background will be blurred. White Balance is also very important when shooting as it affects the colouring of the image and you can change to suit the setting,  auto white balance (AWB) is usually best. 
When analysing it is important to use the word exposure to describe the lighting in your image.



We then used the cameras in a studio setting.

In this particular studio we use fluorescent lighting which is lighting with a blue undertone.
The lights that can be seen are called Redhead lights which can be used creatively and they are tungsten light. The lights use a gel nutural density filter which stops some light making it less powerful and creates more natural looking shadows almost like a soft box to really even the lighting.

When setting up your 1st light is known as the key light (right) and this is the most powerful light as it shapes the shadows making it intense and dramatic. By just using this one light you can create Rembrandt lighting which is when one side of face is exposed and the other is where all the shadows are. Your second light will be the Fill light (left) as it fills in the shadows to create that even exposure on face making it less intense. The third light in most cases is the kicker/hair light which is places opposite the key light in parrell 45 degrees behind. This light highlights the hair or sculpts the face to separate is from the background, this is an absolute must when using the green screen or else you'll get green outlines on the subject making it look very unprofessional.